Exploring the British Columbian Archipelago’s Most Remote Sacred Site By Marc Cappelletti I am walking in the footsteps of chiefs and carvers, warriors and weavers, shamans and slaves; people as connected to the land as the very trees from which they once made their homes. The ground is soft. It is sacred. And it lies at the edge of the world—Haida Gwaii, British Columbia. We are at the ancient village of SGang Gwaay Llnagaay, formerly known as Nan sdins or Ninstints, on the eastern edge of SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island).
When we, as Canadians, talk about our whole country, we say “from coast to coast to coast.” The three coasts feel very different underfoot. In the west, deep moss makes a trail that feels like walking over sofa cushions; in the east, long grasses swish and slap against your boots; and up north rocks and rivulets form tiled patterns over the permafrost. It was the west coast that convinced me to start working at sea.
Newfoundland’s Gros Morne National Park is one of the few places where you can walk on the Earth’s mantle and also cruise glacially carved freshwater fjords.
In this episode of Expedition Spotlight, join Cultural Specialist Susan Flanagan as she reveals what discoveries are in store on our Canadian Maritimes and Newfoundland expedition.
The sun kissed our faces as the ship glided through the calm waters of the Pacific. Having just navigated the intricate locks of the Panama Canal, a marvel of human engineering, we were now embarking on a new adventure — a visit to the enchanting Iguana Island. The island, a pristine gem, emerged on the horizon, its white sands contrasting with the turquoise waters. As we disembarked, we were greeted by a sight straight out of a nature documentary: hundreds of magnificent frigatebirds, in the sky. We donned our snorkeling gear and plunged into the crystal-clear waters, a kaleidoscope of colors and life unfolding before our eyes. Schools of vibrant fish darted through coral reefs. Back on land, we explored the trails, home to a myriad of black iguanas and halloween crabs. The tranquility of the place was palpable, a stark contrast to the bustling activity we left behind by crossing the canal. As the sun began its descent, casting a golden hue over the island, we gathered on the beach to return to the ship and continue our journey. We will cherish the memory of this idyllic day, a perfect blend of adventure and serenity.
And so begins our last day aboard National Geographic Endurance … but certainly not the least! Our wake-up call this morning included a special note about the wonderful array of albatrosses soaring around us as we made our way back toward the tip of South America. The day was filled with a variety of presentations by the naturalist team, from conservation-focused education to stories from the field of photography and documentary filmmaking. In between talks, we enjoyed a few exciting breaks as we passed by the legendary Cape Horn and were treated to even more legendary Swedish pancakes! To round out a fantastic day concluding an incredible trip, we gathered for the Captain’s Farewell Cocktail Party and the slideshow of our photos from the trip… but it didn’t end there! We couldn’t possibly be sent home without an epic asado dinner and a show by the amazing Endurance crew band, the Shackletunes!!! As declared by our fearless expedition leader, Jamie Coleman: Antarctica completed.
After a couple of days at sea, the sheltered and forest-lined shores of Paterson Inlet made for a dramatic change of scenery this morning. The winds were slack, making our Zodiac rides ashore all the more pleasant. The pest-free Isle of Ulva provided a cacophony of native bird song and the temperate rainforest plants and lichens made for a kaleidoscope of reds (rata flower), greens (ferns) and yellows (lichens).
This morning began at a leisurely pace as we made our way north toward Ushuaia. Despite its fearsome reputation, the Drake gave us little trouble under light winds and steel gray skies. These sea days provide premier opportunities to study pelagic birds, and the entire day there was a diverse attendance of petrels, prions, and albatrosses following our wake at close range. Of particular interest was a group of three Antarctic petrels that stayed with us for the entire morning. Inside the ship we had a wonderful series of talks about the ocean we sailed upon and the continent we were leaving behind. Plankton, ice, the history of whaling, and the long, strange prehistory of Antarctica all featured prominently. The wildlife show continued when a large group of fin whales were spotted in the distance. With some expert maneuvering from the bridge team, we all enjoyed great views of these enormous “greyhounds of the sea.” In the afternoon we had the chance to meet with our captain and some of the engineering team to learn about the inner workings of National Geographic Endurance . As always, the day ended with a lovely meal and some spectacular desserts.
With following seas and a clear horizon, it was a superb day for sea-watching from the outer decks. Keen birders gathered on the bow to get rare close-up views of highly pelagic seabirds. The bird theme continued when, at sunset, we witnessed an astonishing abundance of sooty shearwaters as they readied themselves for their nightly return to land on the Snares Islands (all two million of them!).
