Exploring the British Columbian Archipelago’s Most Remote Sacred Site By Marc Cappelletti I am walking in the footsteps of chiefs and carvers, warriors and weavers, shamans and slaves; people as connected to the land as the very trees from which they once made their homes. The ground is soft. It is sacred. And it lies at the edge of the world—Haida Gwaii, British Columbia. We are at the ancient village of SGang Gwaay Llnagaay, formerly known as Nan sdins or Ninstints, on the eastern edge of SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island).
When we, as Canadians, talk about our whole country, we say “from coast to coast to coast.” The three coasts feel very different underfoot. In the west, deep moss makes a trail that feels like walking over sofa cushions; in the east, long grasses swish and slap against your boots; and up north rocks and rivulets form tiled patterns over the permafrost. It was the west coast that convinced me to start working at sea.
Newfoundland’s Gros Morne National Park is one of the few places where you can walk on the Earth’s mantle and also cruise glacially carved freshwater fjords.
In this episode of Expedition Spotlight, join Cultural Specialist Susan Flanagan as she reveals what discoveries are in store on our Canadian Maritimes and Newfoundland expedition.
We awoke this morning inside Glacier Bay National Park with clouds hanging low over wide expanses of ice. At one point, an eagle landed on an iceberg and was later mobbed by brave gulls. Although the sun made an early attempt to show itself, gentle rain was our near constant companion as we traveled into scenic fjords and circumnavigated storied islands. Sea otters with pups swam alongside us, while sea lions serenaded from rocky shores, and mountain goats traversed high ledges. While the rain kept us largely indoors by mid-afternoon, the atmosphere inside was sunny. With entertaining presentations, good company, and a Bloody Mary bar, our day remained lively.
Today, National Geographic Sea Bird sailed through Misty Fjords National Monument, an incredible wilderness with spectacular cliffs and deep glacial fjords. Mid-morning, we passed by New Eddystone Rock, a volcanic pillar of basalt that juts out of the ocean like a jagged shark tooth. After a quick sighting of Dall’s porpoises, we reached Owl Pass, a narrow gap with a striking cliff rising straight from the ocean that has a large cutout which some say resembles an owl. After boarding Zodiacs, we had an incredible cruise through Owl Pass into Punchbowl Cove. Surrounded by huge mountains on all sides, we got some great views of Barrow’s goldeneye, harlequin ducks, and common mergansers. At the end of the bay, a dozen harbor seals masqueraded as pieces of driftwood, and we even got some quick glimpses of a river otter! We’re excited to cruise up towards Petersburg overnight and are looking forward to the rest of our time aboard National Geographic Sea Bird.
In the morning, we explored a beautiful mangrove swamp for a Zodiac ride, and later we went kayaking. We found lots of blacktip sharks as well as sea turtles and different types of rays, like the spotted eagle and the golden cow rays. A group of blue-footed boobies started to fish in groups and jumped in the ocean like torpedoes to plunge dive. A diamond ray also passed by and stopped to eat some seashells. In the afternoon, we visited Bachas Beach, an important place for nesting sea turtles. Some guests walked to a lagoon to find shore birds, and other guests went deep-water snorkeling from the rocks. We found parrotfish and yellow-tailed damsel fish.
The day began with clear skies over Puerto Ayora, the main town on Santa Cruz Island and a central hub for visitors to the Galápagos. We visited the Giant Tortoise Breeding Center where we saw baby tortoises up close and learned about Lonesome George, a powerful symbol of the archipelago’s unique biodiversity. We then headed into the highlands, beginning with a visit to an ecological farm that demonstrated coffee production and hydroponic farming. The experience offered valuable insight into sustainable practices and the lifestyle of the island’s early settlers. Our final stop was El Manzanillo Ranch, located along a giant tortoise migratory route. After enjoying lunch at the ranch, we explored the grounds and observed the tortoises roaming freely—a magical end to an unforgettable day.
Today we explored the historic and mysterious island of Santiago, which served as home for some and a shelter and refuge for pirates with failed attempts at prosperity. Anchored at James Bay, we disembarked and walked through the arid vegetation and intertidal zone of Santiago, filled with birds, crabs, and fur seals. We finished the morning with a relaxing time at the beach. In the afternoon, we stopped by Buccaneer Cove. We snorkeled and went for Zodiac rides along the giant tuff cliffs. We set course back to National Geographic Delfina and enjoyed a beautiful sunset accompanied by a delicious Ecuadorian meal.
