Danco Island and Sailing to the Weddell, 11/4/2022, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Antarctica
Storms hit the Drake Passage and Antarctica from time to time, and it seems we are just in the middle of one. Despite that… our expedition leader was able to find a wind-free area in the middle of the peninsula, Danco Island, and we were able to hike up to see the wonderful views from the top. Just on the way down to the landing, the blizzard made its way through the channel, and we made our way to the ship just in time.
After a wonderful landing we sailed north, away from the storm, on our way to the Weddell. We could even enjoy some sunshine on our way!
Javier 's passion for birds and nature began as a child exploring the Pyrenees mountains with his father. The mystery that surrounds the Lammergeier silhouette triggered his curiosity and interest towards wildlife. Javier studied biology in Spain and...
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After a night spent sailing through the waves of a moderate Drake Passage, we caught first sight of land in the later part of the morning, signaled by billowing cumulus in the distance as the seas abated. Seabirds of various kinds gathered to accompany us for our arrival back to South America. Though the English name of the Beagle Channel comes from the ship on which Charles Darwin sailed these waters in the 19th century, the area was first known to have been discovered by humans roughly 10,000 years earlier. The Selk'nam, Manek'enk, and Yámana people were the sole occupants of this region prior to the arrival of Europeans, who ultimately brought disease and genocide to its inhabitants. In the afternoon, we learned about the Yámana during a talk by naturalist Jackie. We also had a presentation from our divers, demonstrating how they go about their work in the polar regions. We also heard from Naturalist Toby about the evolution of whales. Throughout the day we observed wildlife, including many birds, whales, and bow-riding dolphins. In the evening, we arrived off Puerto Williams, where officials came on board to clear us into Chile, marking the beginning of the next stage of our journey – the fjords of Patagonia.
This is day one of almost two days crossing the Drake. Not bad. A gentle rocking, some sun, then some fog, then sun again. We have a full day of presentations and special food. Captain Martin takes center stage with a talk on how National Geographic Resolution is so special. He was there when the ship was being built. There are other presentations, including one on lichens by yours truly! Teatime features Argentinean empanadas of all kinds, baked and fried, vegan and not. There is local Argentinean beer tasting too. Dinner was all Pinoy, Philippine food served in national dress. Today we also crossed the polar front and left the Southern Ocean, so it is warmer now. Onward we go.
We awoke today to a beautiful sunny morning in Neko Harbour. We heard penguins and saw whales from the ship as we began our day. We headed out on our Zodiacs to shore where we met one of our first gentoo penguin colonies. We saw lengthy penguin highways going up to their colonies that sat in front of a very active glacier. While some of us explored from land, others cruised through thick ice where there were humpback whales and seals to be found. After a delightful morning exploring Neko Harbour, we came back to the ship where the crew had prepared us a delicious lunch. We took a moment to enjoy the glaciers and icebergs as we sailed to our next destination: Cuverville. When we arrived in Cuverville, we were spoiled again with incredible sunny and still conditions. We headed to shore on Zodiacs where another gentoo penguin colony awaited. The gentoo penguins seemed to go on forever, we were lucky to see many cute and fluffy penguin chicks interacting with their parents as well as a couple of chinstraps who had decided to join. On board, we enjoyed a special Filippino dinner and incredible crew show to end our last day in Antarctica.
