Vatoa Island, Fiji

After sailing southeast all night and for the morning, we approached the low island of Vatoa. Being in the southern Lau group of Fiji, it is one of the most remote islands not only in Fiji, but in much of the world. The National Geographic Endeavour is the first passenger ship to visit the island, and the islanders only receive a supply boat one time per month. The people are a mixture of Fijian and Tongan, both in appearance and culture, and shared a bit of both cultures with us.

We came ashore in the village of Vatoa after lunch and were greeted with an enthusiastic welcome song. Many happy faces were there with a leaf and flower garland put around our necks and a big Bula! Once again, we were amazed by the warmth, happiness, and overall giddiness of the people of this island, and their joy in sharing their village with us. We were treated first to a meke, or traditional dance by the women of the group. The first dance was of Tongan descent, while the second was about the independence of Fiji. The women danced with traditional hand motions, while the men drummed and sang behind.

We then proceeded on to the school, which is up to grade 8, and consists of about 45 students. There we were treated to a traditional weaving of coconut fibers by two of the boys, something they are able to do and sell in the markets in Suva. Afterwards, three more mekes were performed by three different age groups of the students. Each was accompanied by a drum beat and beautiful harmonic singing. The last meke was of great humor as a few of the students pulled some of our younger guests out of the audience for a private dance. The song being sung was about the women out fishing and the men working in the fields, then everyone coming together to dance. As we strolled back along to the beach the kids all followed and serenaded the Zodiacs as we departed to our snorkeling beach.

The final part of the day was spent on an isolated section of beach as the sun was dipping towards the horizon. Many people enjoyed a snorkel with very healthy corals and an abundance of small fishes. Others strolled along the perfect sandy beach and admired the lush vegetation and abundant bird life. In the trees were roosting red-footed boobies and the sky was filled with birds returning from a day of fishing. Many smaller birds were sighted including Polynesian starlings, orange-breasted myzomelas, and blue-crowned lorikeets. Also flying around were numerous large fruit bats leaving their daytime roosts to find fruit to eat for the night. Just off from the beach was a beautifully eroded islet, chewed away at the water level by chitons, a snail relative. Over many years these invertebrates have caused the islands to be shaped like mushrooms, eroding away the rock as they grazed on the algae at the surface of the water. It provided for a very dramatic vista, with the sun setting behind it and the ship in the distance.