Right Whale Bay, South Georgia
This last day in South Georgia was no less exciting than our first. Most of the ship’s company elected to make a landing early in the morning. Approaching the beach in gathering light the sounds of the abundant life here heralded the beginning of the day. The high pitched wail of the seal pups, the gurgle of the king penguins and the calls of gulls and terns all melded into a morning symphony. Although a low fog obscured a sunrise photo opportunities were everywhere. We were greeted at the black sand beach by playful fur seal pups and stately king penguins. Hundreds of kings lined the shore, either heading to sea or just returning to the colony just a short distance from our landing site. Many penguins wandered up to the new visitors in red parkas just as they had at other sites here on South Georgia. The fur seal pups were of two personalities. They were either curious as were the kings or mildly aggressive, perhaps practicing for the territorial demands of an adult fur seal. We walked the length of the beach and up an easy slope to gain the high ground for an overview of the nesting area.
On this island so rich in life there is also death. The carcasses of penguins and seals on the beach allowed us to see the details of their anatomy. There are scavengers to feed on the weak or the dead. A flurry of activity offshore caught our attention and in a moment a dozen giant petrels converged to share in the feast of a dead seal pup. The gulls and storm-petrels waited for the scraps. In a short time the frenzied event was over as one life ended but many bellies were filled.
A light mist didn’t dampen the spirits of those who had an opportunity to join a Zodiac cruise along the shore. From the boats we saw fur seals in groups thrashing the water into a boil. They seemed to play in the kelp mats and perform for the pleasure of the audience. Along the rocky shore we saw several of the light ‘blondies’ that stand out from their dark brown brothers and sisters. Elephant seals were easy to spot on the shore as they are so much larger than even the adult fur seals. We idled among the thick kelp beds for an hour or more enjoying the sounds and the company of the wildlife.
Once back aboard our captain brought the ship close in to the cliffs of the Willis Islands where macaroni penguins and black-browed albatross chicks adorned the slopes. Late in the day blows were sighted from the bridge and a presentation in the lounge suspended. Two species of whales, fin and humpback, were nearby. We rushed to the bow or the bridge, armed with binoculars and cameras. One of the humpbacks breached more than once. Comfortable with our presence the mother and calf pair surfaced several times directly alongside the ship. Their flukes were raised before deeper dives and also seemed to wave goodbye as we departed South Georgia.
