Northwest Spitzbergen
In a concerted effort to draw the most out of our final day aboard the National Geographic Explorer we ventured north today in search of a closing scene- something to solidify this trip as truly exceptional. Spurred on by yet another day of calm weather we steamed towards Liefdefjorden (leaf fjord) in the extreme Northwestern portion of the archipelago. Not long into our northbound course we came across not one, not two, not four but six polar bears before even stepping into a Zodiac. While their presence may have prevented our morning landing, the overcast, filtered light of the Arctic combined with prairie flat water made for perfect viewing conditions as we watched a male and female trudge towards each other along the banks of Liefdefjorded only to change course at the last minute drawing a din of disappointed sighs.
Continuing north we settled ourselves well into Liefdefjorden and made plans for our final Zodiac and kayak outings of the trip. Still a little gun shy about bears, we stayed to the water but could not have found a more pristine, calm anchorage at which to set out. Surrounded by distant peaks, metallic grey water and the patterned, frozen surface of first year pack ice we weaved, paddled and cruised our way in and out and along the bays, headlands and sounds of this rugged part of Svalbard. Other than the occasional bearded seal popping its head up for a look, we were accompanied by nothing but avian life and the dramatic sculptures of ice that lured us deeper and further into the landscape. Not only horizontally further but vertically.
Some took a third opportunity to plunge into the icy waters surrounding the National Geographic Explorer after the day’s operations to take advantage of the ice filled waters and to solidify their polar reputations.
From Liefdefjorden there was one final goal we had to achieve: 80 degrees North. Due to cooperative weather and ice conditions we took the National Geographic Explorer the furthest north it has been in almost a year, crossing this extreme latitude to cheers and flag waving.
Like the hearty souls aboard the Fram (meaning “further” in Norwegian) it seems “There is always sadness on departure. It is as if one cannot after all bear to leave this bleak waste of ice, glaciers, cold and toil…” Besides the “toil” I think I can speak for everyone aboard this ship when I say there will certainly be a hole to fill come tomorrow and our disembarkation in Longyearbyen.
