Southern Isabela

Isabela is by far the largest island in the Galápagos group, making up just over half the total surface area of the archipelago (a little over 4,000 square kilometers). It was created by the fusion of six enormous shield volcanoes, which give rise to the characteristic “seahorse” shape of the island. After a peaceful night, we left Punta Espinoza just before first light to navigate only about 16 nautical miles across the Bolivar Channel to reach to Urbina Bay, at the base of the majestic Alcedo Volcano, on the western coast of Isabela.

This area features great geological and historical interest. In 1954, one and a half square kilometers of the marine reef off the coast of Urbina was uplifted almost instantaneously, by as much as 4 meters.

Many marine creatures were left high and dry, and you could see the evidence of this occurrence during our hike. Some guests were brave taking the long hike of about 2 miles and some others, took the shorter, half-mile long hike.

Along both trails we encountered some big and colorful land iguanas and some unexpected giant tortoises. The iguanas and tortoises blend so well with the dry, greyish brown vegetation at this time of the year that it was easy to miss them! It was hot by the time we ended both hikes, but everybody was pleased with their choices.

Prior to lunch some guests swam off the boat and immediately after we sailed south again, to Punta Moreno, a prominent point between Sierra Negra and Cerro Azul volcanoes, the final two, still-active volcanoes. For the afternoon outing, we offered two options: a hike across the broken lava flows of Punta Moreno, or a Zodiac cruise along this rough coastline where flightless cormorants and pelicans nest, while eagle ray and sea turtles are commonly found...

The “lava hikers” had the chance not only to walk and see all the fantastic shapes and textures of this pa-hoe-hoe lava, but also some pioneer plants that colonized the empty lava flows little by little. An inland brackish lagoon, surrounded by vegetation, like oasis on a dessert, offered us a unique sight: flamingos in the middle of a huge lava flow. Crevices, fissures and amazing lava formations are found here and there, a place where only survivors are meant to be.

As we were coming back on board, the sunset gave us a dramatic last view of the volcanoes disappearing in the dark…