Idaho Inlet, Inian Islands & Elfin Cove
Four Sitka black-tailed deer wandered along the forest margin at Idaho Inlet where we planned to spend the morning hiking and kayaking. Just after breakfast we landed on the rocky shore. There was an opportunity to paddle along the margin of Chichagof Island and the much smaller Shaw Island nearby and also to hike inland to the Fox Creek drainage. The morning was perfect for walking. Many invertebrates in the intertidal zone lay exposed to the air, awaiting a rising tide. There were barnacles and mussels galore, but also amphipods, sea anemones and showy sea stars. The limp sunflower star with its many legs quickly became a favorite. Colorful paintbrushes, buttercups and beach peas dotted the meadow that linked the forest with the sea. There were constant reminders that we were visitors in the realm of coastal brown bears. Droppings, or scat, footprints and a network of trails provided evidence of their presence. A number of trees had been rubbed smooth and bore scratch marks and even bits of hair from passing bears.
The ship repositioned and in early afternoon anchored at the Inian Islands. This cluster of small islands is exposed to the open Pacific, and churning currents swirl through the channels bringing a rich diversity of life. We set off by Zodiac for a closer look at this fascinating environment. We spotted gulls, cormorants, guillemots and even a few tufted puffins. Bald eagles circled overhead and perched in the shoreline trees. Most of our viewing energy focused on Steller sea lions. Curious individuals checked out our boats, and looked at us with big vacant eyes. Loafing animals relaxed limply on the rocks or argued with throaty growls over the best resting spots. Although this species is endangered farther north in Alaska, the population in Southeast seems to be thriving. If all this wildlife was not enough, several humpback whales surfaced close by. One rolled lazily in the kelp with a sea lion cavorting around its snout.
We managed to stop once more before dinner, this time at the tiny fishing village of Elfin Cove. One of the long-time residents joined us on the ship for an introduction to her home town, and then we took Zodiacs into the small harbor choked with fishing boats. At our landing site, we encountered some fishermen with a recent catch of halibut. While we watched, they filleted and skinned the fresh fish as in the photograph. After walking the boardwalks and making some purchases in the few local stores, we all rejoined the National Geographic Sea Bird for a delicious dinner as we motored towards Glacier Bay for tomorrow’s adventures.
