San Javier Mission and Loreto
Today we had a very pleasant day travelling through the land portion of the Baja California Peninsula. The northerly winds were blowing strong at sea and we were all happy to be on land. We were also eager to learn about the fascinating past of this place.
We disembarked in the scenic port called “Puerto Escondido,” just under the most amazing part of the “Sierra de la Giganta.” We embarked our vans heading to the San Javier Mission, which is embedded in the heart of the peninsula. As we travelled up the mountains through a winding road, questions naturally came to our minds like, why did the Jesuits get established in such a remote area? How did they transport all they needed for the mission?
The main reason why the missions are located where they are is simple… water, and a lot of water if we consider the arid environment that surrounds the area. It was impressive to think that what for us took 90 minutes by van, for the missionaries, almost 300 years ago, must have taken weeks to transport valuable art work and heavy bells by horse and mule.
The magnificent mission church is in excellent shape, and around it, we can still see some of the original olive trees that are now gnarled elders. Lush orchards with oranges, guavas and mangoes contrast with the desert surroundings; a true oasis of life. This oasis attracts a number of interesting bird species as well. Our most exciting finding was a number of Xantu’s hummingbirds, which are unique to the southern peninsula.
Later, we explored the second mission of the day, “Nuestra Seṅora de Loreto,” the first mission of the lower and higher Californias. A small museum showed several interesting pieces of history, like leather saddles tanned with palo blanco by the native rancheros. Later on, we meandered through the town of Loreto looking for Mexican souvenirs and grabbing a margarita or two at the local restaurants.
Back on the National Geographic Sea Bird, we sailed toward the south end of Isla del Carmen. Shortly after leaving port, we found a magnificent fin whale. The tall blow was quickly taken away by the wind, but there was a point at which this leviathan moved almost under the ship’s bow, giving everyone amazing looks at the submarine giant.
