Folegandros
A quiet night alongside the dock of the island of Folegandros hinted at a change of pace, following a few action-packed days in some of the highlight islands of the Greek Cyclades. The little-known island of Folegandros has a different feel, with a population of only 700 year-round inhabitants, and most of the other visitors being Greeks or “off-the-beaten-track” European backpackers. This has been a long-time favorite island of Lindblad Expeditions, and the reasons became apparent after the local bus drove us all up the single canyon road from the port to the “chora” (main town) perched on the cliffs above.
As soon as we got out of the local bus after the 5-minute drive, we knew this was different. The view from the bus turnaround revealed ruggedly terraced limestone sloping steeply down to the azure seas below, while the chora was packed tightly along the rim of the cliff. We walked into the shaded main square, but guides Ellie and Smaro quickly ducked us through arching bougainvillea and jasmine and through labyrinthine passages to explore a delightful village that was just waking up to another day in paradise. It was a photographer’s paradise – pottery and flowers, colorful windows and railings, seductive alleys and portals and plenty of shady cafes. We sauntered around the village on our own for awhile, and some of us took the opportunity to walk back down to the port along the canyon road.
Back on board, we heard the announcement that “the best restaurant in Folegandros Harbor is now open for lunch,” as Hotel Manager Nikos and the Panorama crew hosted us once again. We then received news of a real bonus, that we would be able to stay docked for a few more hours in Folegandros. For most of us that meant . . . to the beach for a swim!
We cast off into a healthy wind at about 1500 and cruised the dramatic northern coastline of Folegandros and then neighboring Poliegos. Hiding from an unusually strong southwesterly wind for June, we anchored for the evening in the lee of Komilos.
After a late-afternoon rest, things started to pick up with the unmistakable smells of ouzo and grilled octopus circulating in the lounge and upper deck. This led into a full-fledged Greek party with festive music, a characteristic abundance of delectable Greek dishes, all culminating with spectacular dancing by Hotel Manager Nikos and the accompaniment of the Captain, Chief Engineer and many of our shipmates. Oppa!
