Isla San José & Puerto Gatos

Happy New Year’s Eve Day! We awoke this morning to dolphins and blue skies as far as the eye could see. Group after group of long-beaked common dolphins passed by our ship, leaping and bowriding in the soft light and calm waters. As we revelled in the exuberance of these cetaceans, a keen-eyed guest spotted a whale blow off the bow. We seized the opportunity and spent the next hour observing an elusive group of three or four individuals. Naturalists gazed in books and engaged in animated debates, resulting in the consensus that we were watching Bryde’s and/or fin whales. Regardless of their human name-label, we thoroughly enjoyed watching them breathe and dive.

After breakfast, we anchored on the east side of Isla San José and headed ashore at Punto Colorado. This amazing island is a colorful mix of granite and sandstone sea-floor uplifted during the tumultuous forming of the Gulf. We meandered up a red, orange, and brown arroyo, marvelling at million-year old fossilized seashells scattered throughout crumbling sculpted walls. We also entered the water for snorkelling and an impromptu all-ages cliff jumping expedition into the deep. Truly a glorious morning.

Back on the ship, a deck pizza lunch was served complete with succulent Baja-mian popsicles or ‘paletas.’ We then cruised west to the peninsular mainland in the company of whales, dolphins, and even a lonely sea turtle. As additional entertainment, the younger members of our voyage experimented with solar ovens and mariners’ knots. With the New Year drawing ever closer, we anchored at Puerto Gatos and scampered ashore for Yoga, relay races, Ultimate Frisbee, beach wandering, and nature walks. Back on the ship our hotel staff was preparing yet another feast and decorating the upper deck for the end-of-year festivities. Even the pelicans were invited – we lowered an underwater light and revelled in watching them dive at the fish that surrounded our vessel. Finally, the moment of truth arrived: midnight, Eastern Standard Time. In accordance with marine tradition, our oldest guest rang out 2004 on the ship’s bell, and our youngest rang in 2005. Toasts, cheers, and even fireworks celebrated the occasion. To add to the revelry, our Natural History staff composed a wee little song, inspired by the classic “What a Wonderful World”:

I see skies of blue, green cactus too
A naturalist is talking, as they always do.
And I think to myself – what a wonderful world.

I see dolphins bow riding, remoras hitchhiking
The whales are all diving, the desert is thriving,
And I think to myself – what a wonderful world.

Bridge: The colours of the mountains, reflect the rising sun
Another year is passing, just like it’s always done
I see friends shaking hands, saying this life is great
Let’s hit the Sea Bird and Celebrate!!

I see cactus thorns, sticking out of my thigh,
The memories of this trip, will bring tears to my eyes,
And I think to myself – what a wonderful world.