San Juan del Sur, Rivas, Granada and Masaya, Nicaragua

In 1850 Cornelius Vanderbilt founded the Nicaragua Transit Company. This enterprise offered pioneers wanting to travel from the east coast of the United States to California the possibility of doing it in a shorter period of time and avoiding having to go all the way through Tierra del Fuego or across the continental United States. The route which Vanderbilt opened went from the main ports in the U.S. into the Caribbean coast of Nicaragua where steamships would enter into the San Juan River, then into Lake Nicaragua and finally, after a short ride by stagecoach, passengers would board another ship which would take them to their final destination: San Francisco. But Nicaragua at the time was torn by a civil war and Vanderbilt decided to protect his business by supporting William Walker, a fanatical adventurer who led a group of American mercenaries into Nicaragua and, in a short time, became president of the Republic. Although Walker was eventually defeated, his presence in Nicaragua marked the beginning of a turbulent history of confrontations between the U.S. and the Nicaraguans which culminated in 1979 with the Sandinista Revolution. Twenty five years after the triumph of the Sandinistas and fifteen years after the country’s return to democracy, Nicaragua is a country at peace which is struggling to overcome its violent past.

This morning we disembarked in the port of San Juan del Sur where we boarded the motor coach which took us through part of the historical Transit Route and into the city of Rivas, site of so many wars and battles. After visiting the local market and touring the town on “pepanos” (modified bicycle-taxis) we continued into the splendid colonial style city of Granada and enjoyed walking through the streets flanked by colorful houses and tile roofs which transported us to times long gone. Lunch was served on the way to Masaya it consisted of a buffet style meal which Nicaraguans call “Caballo Bayo.” We then visited the crater of Masaya Volcano whom the Spaniards of the 16th century named Mouth of Hell – and that was impressive! Then we had time to go shopping in the city of Masaya and came back to the Sea Voyager amidst an exciting storm. An unforgettable conclusion to an unforgettable day. In short, we were impressed not only by the beauty of the country but by the hospitality and warmth of its people.