We are now slowly making our way south along the western coast of Greenland. After a full afternoon and ‘night,’ but of course still with 24 hours daylight, we have crossed the huge Melville Bay and reached Holms Ø. For anyone not used to the 24 hours daylight, it usually takes some time to adjust, but we are now all experienced polar travelers in the far north, who have crossed the latitude 80 degrees north.
Looking at the navigation charts we cannot find any soundings and the area around Holms Ø it is for sure a true day of exploration. Large icebergs hint that we do have deep waters but as we approach a potential landing site, our sounding Zodiac is deployed to get a more precise map of water depth, to take the ship as close as possible. Soon all the hikers are ashore and divided into long, medium, and short hikes. It is a Greenland fjord and the only way to go is uphill.
The abundance of vegetation does show we have surely left the High Arctic, the barren land dominated by lichens and moss, as the sparsely vegetation and mainly rocks. The brilliant weather conditions are also on our side, and today was the first day could land for hiking without being bundled up. In fact it was very pleasant just to sit and watch over the fjord with all its icebergs and flat calm conditions and surrounded by rich vegetation.
The lower slope was painted in colors with its vegetation; it is the end of August and the polar willow is now showing the fall colors with yellow and red leaves. Some of the hikers encountered birds, which have not yet departed for their migration, red-throated loons, Canadian geese, snow buntings, and redpolls. The long hikers, who gained altitude, encountered ptarmigans.
At the beach it was noticed that we were not the first to arrive here. A pile of smaller whale bones told us the site had been used by Inuit hunters. Most likely the bones were from narwhals but a skull did look more like a beluga. The archaeologist group found some stone rings indicating the site had been used over a long time but also remains suggesting more recent use.
With the pleasant weather the galley crew had arrange a barbeque lunch, hamburgers on the aft deck for the more hardy polar travelers, while the less hardy enjoyed the same in the dining room. Soon after lunch our fleet of kayaks was launched plus Zodiac cruises to circle the icebergs and explore deeper into the fjord.
Ice is nice! You can never have too much and some who went further into the fjord found an amazing iceberg with a huge arch. A nesting site was found, still with the male peregrine falcon sitting beside. The peregrine is a very cosmopolitan bird species but it is the birds breeding furthest north that migrate furthest south. Soon this bird will head on its long migration, and who knows, we may encounter the same bird in late October as the ship has reached Patagonia! Furthest into the fjord, a distant view of the Greenland icecap was seen.
Whoever brought the good weather we have experienced on this voyage, bless you!
