This is our first full day into our expedition in the Galápagos Archipelago. In the morning, we visited North Seymour Island, just north of Baltra. Although flat and dry, this island is considered one of the jewels of the Galápagos due to the number of unique species that inhabit it. The shallow waters that surround the island are highly productive, and the island was teaming with life; particularly attractive today were the frigate birds, which have already started their breeding season. At times, we could hear the chorus of the males displaying for the female frigates, in a desperate attempt to find a mate. Along the trail, we had to avoid walking too close to nesting swallow-tailed gulls; this endemic species is the only nocturnal gull in the world. A charismatic species that we were able to observe from very close was the blue-footed booby, a fantastic diver that stuns everybody with its kamikaze style. We navigated during lunchtime towards Rábida; thanks to the recent rains, the contrast between the green foliage and the reddish lavas and sands is rather striking. Several sea lions rested on the beautiful beach, oblivious to us brief visitors to their paradise.
10/4/2024
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National Geographic Endeavour II
Genovesa Island
With coffee in hand, I stepped out onto the front balcony of the lounge to see what was going on. We had just entered Darwin’s Bay, dropped anchor, and the juvenile red-footed boobies had found the ship and were flying around us on an inspection tour. The rest of the day continued with discoveries of all kinds. An early morning inversion layer (locally known as “garúa”) had fallen and dampened the environment with much desired drops of fresh water, although the chicks of various species didn’t appear terribly pleased in having wet feathers. On our return, the same bedraggled individuals looked smooth, sleek and dry once the sun had come out. The Galapagos National Park has only two sites for visitors, both spectacular, both well worth a slow walk among the palo santo trees to see the great frigatebirds, red-footed boobies, Nazca boobies, Galapagos doves, Darwin’s finches, short-eared owls, and storm petrels. Snorkeling, kayaking, and paddleboarding along the base of the cliffs of Darwin’s Bay followed. There’s nothing quite like this island anywhere in the world.