Palmer Station, Neumayer Channel, Gerlache Strait, 3/5/2024, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Antarctica
We got to visit Palmer Station today! The United States Antarctic Program has about 40 people working here through the summer, and a much smaller number maintain the facilities through the Antarctic winter. It was fascinating to hear about the research, and about how they create a community and enjoy their down time.
In the afternoon we sailed through Neumayer Channel, a beautiful, narrow waterway surrounded by steep, snow-capped mountains, and glaciers touching the water. In Gerlache Strait, some guests joined staff on the bridge as we searched for wildlife.
Berit grew up on the rocky shores of Marblehead, Massachusetts, where she explored the marine environment through changing tides and seasons, nurturing a love of natural history and marine biology.
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After yesterday’s windy start to our South Georgia visit, it was delightful to awaken this morning to calm conditions in Hercules Bay. Exploring by Zodiac, we found riches of avian and pinniped wildlife, lush vegetation, and swirling kelp forests. Macaroni penguins clambered down steep hillsides from their tussock burrows to the sea. Light-mantled albatross soared overhead, and playful young fur seals filled the intertidal zone. Strikingly folded sedimentary rocks created a dramatic landscape. The blustery and snowy afternoon was spent at Grytviken, one of six former shore-based whaling stations on the island. In the small cemetery, we honored the legacy and leadership of Sir Ernest Shackleton with a toast. Hikers climbed above the site for a view over the bay, while others enjoyed walking tours with a historian from the South Georgia Heritage Trust to learn about station infrastructure and daily life. The whaling and sealing past of this region provide a tangible reminder that modern conservation efforts are critical to the Southern Ocean’s ecological future.
The day began with high winds as we cruised through the dramatic Bay of Isles. The air was filled with excitement as we observed massive icebergs drifting silently amidst the swells. Thousands of king penguins dotted the shorelines near Salisbury Plain, their vivid colors striking against the muted backdrop of the Southern Ocean. Overhead, the skies were alive with birdlife, from skuas and petrels to albatrosses gliding effortlessly on the wind. In the afternoon, we made a memorable landing at Right Whale Bay. Here, we hiked through tussock grass and along rocky terrain to a vast king penguin colony, where the sights and sounds of their thriving community were unforgettable. Some guests ventured farther to reach a glacier, rewarded with stunning views of its icy expanse. Others lingered near the beach, captivated by fur seal pups as they played and explored the shoreline, offering countless photographic opportunities. As the day drew to a close, the dynamic landscapes, vibrant wildlife, and powerful weather reminded us of South Georgia’s untamed beauty and the privilege of exploring this remote corner of the world.
Conditions couldn’t be more pleasant for the first day of our two-day crossing to South Georgia, with fair winds and following seas as our companions all day long. After a full and exciting three days in the Falklands, the calm and restful day was much appreciated by all on board. Our presentation schedule for the day began with, “An Introduction to Penguins of South Georgia,” by this DER’s author, followed by Dr. Deb Goodwin’s talk on, “The Southern Ocean.” Later in the afternoon, we attended a mandatory briefing on guidelines and practices for our visits to both South Georgia and Antarctica, immediately followed by a mandatory biosecurity check and decontamination. The latter is an essential and necessary practice to ensure that we don’t bring any foreign pathogens and organic materials to these two pristine environments. The afternoon concluded with a wonderful lecture from National Geographic Photographer James Whitlow and a delicious teatime service complete with fresh scones. We will need every bit of rest and calories to prepare us for the next several days in South Georgia.
