Beginning the day in the shadows of the Lemaire Channel, the National Geographic Orion maneuvered through the narrow passage amidst fog and downward leaning glaciers. Scuttling between the ice, our course lead us to a place nicknamed the Graveyard – a geographical squeeze point where mammoth icebergs tend to ground themselves in the shallow water.
Launching every Zodiac available, our guests set off in all directions. Within such a labyrinth there was no one direction to go, but rather a journey of unknown discoveries. At every turn we seemed to witness a new form that defied our preconceptions of the forms ice can take.
Most memorable was a large arching iceberg that stood seven stories high. Yet to be grounded, it spun continuously throughout the morning. Allowing us to turn away from it to enjoy the minke whales and crabeater seals before returning to it to see what new photographic opportunities were made available by its motion.
Our afternoon provided a very special encounter indeed. Visiting Palmer Station – an American Antarctic research station – our guests were able to see the operation up close and meet the people who spend the majority of the year at the bottom of the world. There were more penguins and even fur seals to be seen, but it is easily said that meeting those who staff such a remote locale was the real treat of the day. Having them onboard for cocktails and dinner let questions and stories flow. This provided a memorable evening of honest engagement with those sturdy enough to call the Antarctic home.
