The Drake Passage, 1/17/2023, National Geographic Resolution
Aboard the
National Geographic Resolution
Antarctica
We left the Antarctic Peninsula for our first full day at sea since our arrival to the White Continent. Staff presented on several subjects in the Ice Lounge, including studying ice in Antarctica, the great explorers who tried to conquer the harsh continent, and John’s adventure with the British Antarctic Survey!
Morale was high, and the passengers and good crew of National Geographic Resolution were in good spirits as we sailed north to Ushuaia, knowing that our grand adventure has almost come to an end.
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After an absolutely breathtaking expedition south of the Antarctic Circle complete with four separate killer whale sightings, too many humpbacks to count, breathtaking bays filled with ice, and sea ice filled with resting seals of all types, we set our heading north. The Southern Ocean was kind to us as we sailed through calm waters and rainy skies. During our day at sea, we kept busy with lectures from the expedition staff, an afternoon watercolor workshop, a presentation about the ship by Captain Heidi Norling, and a tour of the engine room. As the sun dipped lower, we celebrated the culture of many of our crew family with a Filipino dinner followed by a crew performance. It was a cracking day at sea!
National Geographic Resolution spent the day surrounded by icebergs and sea ice in Crystal Sound as the weather got sunnier throughout the day. Guests experienced Detaille Island during the morning activities. Everyone went on guided Zodiac rides around the island where we saw numerous crabeater seals and icebergs. We stopped to observe an Adelie penguin colony, including dozens of penguins waiting to jump in the ocean. Many people went on shore to see the historic research hut from 1956-58, including all the original canned food and equipment kept in pristine condition. Some guests climbed the snowy hill to see the top of the penguin colony across a deep ravine. In the afternoon, the ship cruised around Crystal Sound so we could see the sea ice, glacial icebergs, and huge tabular icebergs. There were beautiful blue sea caves and arches in many of the icebergs, as well as dozens of crabeater seals on the sea ice. However, two humpback whales stole the show when they appeared in the sea ice near the ship. We could hear their loud exhaling and see them diving up close. The rest of the day was spent relaxing, enjoying a presentation, cocktail hour, recap, and dinner as the sun showed brightly in the west. What a perfect day to end our awesome week in Antarctica.
At 7am, National Geographic Resolution’s horn sounded as we crossed the Antarctic Circle. After steaming south overnight we awoke to see Adelaide Island and spent the next few hours probing south, seeking an ice-free route to the Gullet, the narrow passage that leads into Marguerite Bay. In between marvelling at the scenery, guests learned about the future of polar governance from naturalist Kevin Rattue. After carving through the broken sea ice in Hanusse Bay, spotting crabeater seals and minke whales, we found that the narrow route to the east of the Gullet, the Gunnel Channel, was clear and navigable. Carefully negotiating down the passage, we emerged into the open waters to the south and nestled for lunch in the spectacular Laubeuf Fjord. While Zodiacs zipped off to explore the nearby shores and islets, we also deployed our fleet of kayaks so that guests could enjoy the still ice floes at sea level and under their own steam. Crabeater seals lounged on last year’s sea ice, a leopard scowled as we passed, and magnificent ice sculptures lingered in the bay. Once back aboard we prepared the ship for the polar plunge and 76 brave guests finished the day by leaping into the icy waters of the Antarctic Circle.
