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The morning transit to Heimaey was spectacular. We passed several gannet colonies on the offshore stacks and watched hundreds gracefully soaring to and from their cliffside nests searching for fish. We soon encountered a feeding frenzy with nearly 100 gannets soaring above a school of fish and 7-9 orcas feeding within the school! The gannets dove into the water, reminiscent of a volley of arrows launched from the ramparts of a castle by medieval archers. The pod of orcas actively pursued fish in their own way. After lunch, we had a choice of a panoramic tour of Heimaey or hikes to the top of Eldfell, a potentially active volcano that last erupted in 1973. The tour viewed the puffin colony before visiting the famous Volcano Museum devoted to the 1973 eruption. The hikes attempted to climb to the peak of Eldfell, but unfortunately, the winds were so energetic that the guides wisely decided to turn back below the peak. Nevertheless, it was invigorating to be exposed to high winds on the side of a volcano that last erupted 52 years ago. The evening (and voyage) concluded with the traditional captain’s dinner and guest slideshow. Future National Geographic photographers perhaps?
We woke to a dramatic, windswept seascape this morning. White-beaked dolphins and abundant seabirds traveled with us as we traversed open ocean waters to the Svalbard Archipelago. Biosecurity and safety briefings were the order of the day heading into the arctic wilderness. The open sea crossing was also a perfect setting for Lars’ talk on Viking longboats. Bjørnøya is not a place one decides to visit, rather, it’s a place we hope will invite us in. Sun and calm wind welcomed our arrival, and our expedition team prepared for a Zodiac cruise under the island’s stunning bird cliffs. Bjørnøya had other plans! As conditions rapidly changed, the Zodiacs were secured and we enjoyed a still stunning and much drier ship cruise, with fulmars so numerous they could even be seen on the ships RADAR!
Today we had a wonderful time visiting Tromsø, often referred to as the “Gateway to the Arctic”, since several important polar expeditions departed from here. We visited interesting museums, tasted some local delicacies (including cod tongue and roe), and played with sled dog puppies. We couldn’t have asked for a better time!
This morning, we awoke to a misty morning in Borgarfjörður Eystri with the promise of puffins. And we were not disappointed! Immediately next to our Zodiac landing was a cliff of puffins only an arm’s length away. We returned to these cliffs throughout the day, between our other adventures. Many of us went on either a gentle or invigorating naturalist-led hike through lupine fields where we saw a variety of local birds and plants, and some of us even neared the foggy summit of Mt. Svartfell. Others explored the valley roads or backcountry trails of the area on e-bikes or enjoyed a tour of the remote hamlet of Bakkagerði. We refreshed ourselves at a local brewery and café, savoring our coffees, pints, and some exceptional cookies. Back on National Geographic Explorer for the evening, our bartender Klaus served his highly unusual but delicious creation: a cocktail (or mocktail) made from local rye bread. We rounded out the gorgeous day with a presentation from our historian Dorothee on the history and grammar of the Icelandic language.
This morning National Geographic Endurance was anchored within a beautiful fjord in northern Norway, not far from the Lofoten Islands and the famous Trollfjord, where we cruised last night. Our mission after breakfast was to explore and enjoy.
