With a gentle following sea astern, we set our bow to the shores of Antarctica. Gentle breezes pushed us past towering tabular icebergs as seabirds streamed alongside our ship. The horizon was full of the blows from fin and humpback whales, some passing close to National Geographic Explorer, giving us incredible views of these stunning creatures. Much to our surprise, cryptic animals such as strap-toothed beaked whales and a southern bottlenose whale were spotted from the bridge to the delight of all present.
Calm seas in a breathtaking landscape lay ahead on our course to the seventh continent.
Born in the mountains of east Tennessee, it was easy for Steve to fall in love with the wonderful natural environment around him. What started as a childhood passion to scan the creeks and ponds for all they would reveal evolved into a studied desire...
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Neko Harbour was named after the whale factory ship Neko which operated along the Antarctic Peninsula in 1911-12 and again in 1923-24. The landing spot is home to gentoo penguins, skuas, snowy sheathbills and kelp gulls. There is a great walk to a viewpoint above the landing beach and a glacier near the landing site. This is also a chance to actually step foot on the continent of Antarctic! Cuverville Island is home to a wealth of breeding birds, including a large gentoo penguin colony. Whalers used it heavily as a flensing area during the 1920’s. Our landing will include a chance to hike up to a viewpoint, and to enjoy a Zodiac cruise around the icebergs in the bay. During evening recap, we had a surprise visit by a pod of killer whales. What a way to end our voyage to Antarctica!
Today we awoke to a beautiful day in Antarctica with weather far improved from yesterday. We had already arrived at our next destination of Mikkelsen Harbour by the time we were called to breakfast. After breakfast the expedition team headed out to prepare the landing for us. The plan was to land on a small island inside the harbor called D’Hainaut, which boasted several historical artefacts as well as a bustling gentoo colony. Once ashore we climbed up to the top of the hill and watched the penguins as they busied themselves mating and shuffling up and down the hillside. The weather improved as we watched them, and we were bathed in sunshine. However, it was time to leave our penguin friends to their activities. We returned to National Geographic Explorer for a quick lunch whilst the ship repositioned then headed back out. Our next stop was at a place called Curtiss Bay, a beautiful bay surrounded by huge glaciers in various hues of blue. The water of the bay was glass calm and filled with brash, bergy bits and larger icebergs. Half of our guests went kayaking amongst the beautiful ice whilst the rest enjoyed a Zodiac cruise. The sun was in full force and it backlit the beautiful blue icebergs for us, making great opportunity for photos. All too soon it was time to return through the shards of sparkling ice and return to the comfort of National Geographic Explorer.
We arrived in the early hours to the Antarctic Peninsula as National Geographic Explorer made her way into Antarctic Sound, navigating through ice flows and penguins towards the fast ice attached to Joinville Island. As the ship pushed into the ice and the gangway was lowered for ice walks, it seems every Adelie penguin within sight wanted to check us out! The afternoon was spent finding leopard seals, Weddell seals, and all the brush-tailed penguins around the ice before those brave/silly enough aboard went for a polar plunge.
