Rarely conditions here in the very south of South Atlantic, are just PERFECT but at rare occasions you can be very lucky to hit one of these unique events. So we did today! The waters were named the Roaring 40s, the Screaming 50s, and Howling 60s by the early sailors but once in a while even this part of the ocean can show a different side.
Before sunrise the ship was anchored off one of the islands northwest of Falklands, Steeple Jason, and soon we had a scout boat out to investigate a small cove, one of the few landings sites here. The report confirmed, this is the day. The ocean was like glass and created a rare opportunity to visit these wind- and usually swell-exposed islands.
Soon we all were on shore and hiking towards one of the largest black-browed albatross colonies in the world. Already at the beach we were greeted by striated caracaras, black tussock birds, and of course hundreds of molting gentoo penguins. After a 15 minute hike around the corner to one of the higher peaks here, a ‘sea’ of albatross chicks ahead. After finally also making it through almost two meters high tussock grass we were able to sit on the edge of this huge colony with black-browed albatrosses, mainly well feed and well-grown chicks. Soon we saw adults fly in making a not so graceful landing, making their way to its the specific nest and chick. The feeding is made by having the chick peck at the adult’s beak and force it to regurgitate the food (mainly squid) that has been collected during almost a week roaming the ocean. Further down the slope a large colony of hungry rockhopper penguin chicks were also waiting for adults to arrive with fresh food.
The more energetic among us climbed one of the peaks to see the spectacular scenery and West Point Island to the south. Those who slowly made it back to our landing cove were able to enjoy large South American sea lions nearby our landing cove. As the Zodiacs were shuttling us back to the ship playful Peale’s dolphins put on a show bow riding the ship.
During lunch the ship repositioned to Carcass Island and watching from the bridge we saw plenty of sei whales feeding with gusto. Carcass is another fantastic bird island and in the afternoon the long hikers landed at Leopard Beach to make a long hike back to the farm, were a ‘grand tea’ was waiting. Being one of the few rat-free islands in the Falkland, all the smaller passerine birds thrive here and are all very tame, ideal for any photographer. Those not so eager for a longer hike made it to the settlement to enjoy photography and birding near the farm and stroll along the beach front as it was low tide and plenty of feeding ducks, geese, and wader birds and finally end up at the farm house to enjoy the tea.
This was for sure a day filled with exciting birding and also amazing opportunities for photography, not only because of the endless objects, birds, seals, etc., but also the ideal light, with overcast conditions creating a soft light. Having NO wind nor rain was of course very helpful, especially considering the normally ever-changing weather, almost hour by hour, here in the Falklands. What an amazing start to our outings!
