We were escorted by an enthusiastic group of long-beaked common dolphins before sunrise. Calm seas and the ragged tops of peninsular mountains slowly became brighter as we approached the most beautiful island in the gulf. Isla Santa Catalina not only has a virtual garden of cardon cacti and unusually young granite, but its oceanic status has allowed all of its reptiles to evolve in isolation to at least an endemic subspecies status. It is here we played the morning away, hiking, exploring, snorkeling and generally goofing off in solitude.