We rounded the cape before dawn to a sky full of misty clouds and soft pink light. Fishing boats were starting their journey from Cabo San Lucas to the south, but the base of the towering granite rocks of Land’s End still stood alone and not yet awash in the wake waves of passersby. Soon we were on our way to San José del Cabo to walk through parts of town and look at birds in the estero that runs the last mile or so before its water soaks the ocean beach. Watching humpback whales would fill our warm afternoon.